Tag Archives: rattle

Going nuts…

After having used the Stagg for a while now, I noticed that the nut slots could be a bit deeper, mainly on the E and A strings. So digged up a business card as a distance gauge and some small files and decided to have a go at it.

The Stagg nut is made of plastic which is not the best nut material to be honest… But nevertheless working on it went fine but it turned out that business card thickness was just a bit too little on the E string. There is no buzz on the E string itself but when plucking the A string the E string “clacks” against the fingerboard. Which I find quite annoying… Or course this only occurs while playing pizz (I play mostly arco nowadays (started in an symphonic orchestra recently) but I have decided to have a go at making a new nut from ebony in the near future…

Ebony_for_nut-02So I have ordered a piece of ebony that was in my mail just yesterday. I showed it to my kids and they would not believe that wood would sink… So I proved to them that it actually does in a glass of water. Never thought a piece of wood could be educational!

In the near future I will try to make a new nut for the Stagg. I will document this process in this blogpost.

Contradictory to what I wrote earlier, I am NOT going to make a new nut in the future. The E string “clacking” has gone (or I have gotten used to it…) and the plastic nut works fine.

I am however going to make a new pickup for the Stagg as the stock ones do not work well when playing arco. But that is a whole different story….

Finetuning the bass

During the last 3 weeks the Stagg accompanied me on my holiday. Such a holiday is perfect for small imperfections to surface… And they did. This post documents a few minor tweaks I did after I got back from holiday.

Thrussrod rattle
The Stagg is fitted with a totally useless thrussrod. During my holiday I found out that the only thing it did very well was rattling in its slot. I tried to fix this using bathroom sealant. Read about it here.

Endpin got stuck
At the campsite we had bbq that ended in a jam session. I could not join as I did not bring my amp but I did show the bass on request. Only to find out the endpin got stuck in the new plug. I knew the fit was quite tight and after taking it out there appeared to be some transfer from the (softer) aluminum to the steel of the rod. After carefully removing this the rod was OK again. Something to keep my eye on.

Endpin rattle
EndpinRattleInside_1At the campsite I mainly used the bass with the pin as far in as possible. This leaves a long part inside the bass which is a possible cause for vibration. So while I had the pin out anyhow I decided to make an endblock that fixates the endpin when it is as far in as possible.

EndpinRattleInside_2This might well be the most unnecessary modification I have done but it took only a few minutes. I made a maple wooden insert with a 10,5 mm hole in it. The endpin was chamfered a bit more  so it would “guide itself” into the hole. The block was made to exact size and fitted with a couple of screws. When the pin is in the block it is under a bit of tension so it will not rattle.

Battery compartment
BatteryCushionAnother modification that might not be all that necessary is fitting some padding material to the battery compartment to prevent possible rattling. It implied nothing more than sticking two pieces of foam tape inside the compartment and on the lid. Better safe than sorry 🙂

Body support and tuner
BodySupportTuner_2The body support that I made for playing seated turned out to be on the wrong side of the bass. At home, sitting on a high bass stool, everything was ok, but on the campsite, sitting on a picnic bench the balance point proved to be a bit off. So I moved the body support over the left hand side (G string) of the bass. My first impression is that this position feels a lot better, the bass appears to be better balanced. But time will tell I guess…

I used (and have hidden) the hole on the right hand side to fit a small Planet Waves NS micro tuner. This way this can stay on the bass permanently and not look obtrusive. And I won’t get caught again without a tuner!

Apogee JAM
apogee-jamThe last thing I did was treating myself to an Apogee JAM guitar interface. With this nifty little device you can connect an electric guitar, or EUB, to an iPhone, iPad, Mac or PC and record the sound in an application like Garageband. I wanted to be able to hear myself back for a while and this makes it possible. I have yet to find out the optimal settings but is is very “educational” to hear yourself play…


As I wrote at the bottom of my posting on the finished honey Stagg I started to notice a buzz on the D string. I decided not to tinker with the bass until after my holiday. The bass would accompany me and would sure show all things that would need further work during those weeks. But the buzz or rattle, don’t know the best term to describe it, became worse and worse and started to occur on all strings. As I had eliminated most sources for this noise before I was pretty sure the thrussrod was the culprit…

The Stagg EUB is fitted with a thrussrod. But with the thickness of the EUB neck this is totally useless. Turning it (counter)clockwise as far as possible has no noticeable effect on the neck whatsoever. On both Staggs. So the only thing I did a while back was to give it a little bit of tension to prevent it from rattling in its slot. But obviously this was not enough…

I borrowed a allen key from the campsite owner and tried several adjustments to eliminate the rattle. It worked for about 80% but there was still some rattle left. As the rod cannot be taken, the only way of preventing it from rattling is filling the slot with something to prevent the rod to move at all.

NeckSiliconeWhen I got back from holiday I to took off the neck again (which also gave me the opportunity to take some more pictures for the post on the neck angle). Tapping on the bare neck showed that I  guessed right, I clearly heard the rod rattling in its slot… Adjusting the rod made little or no difference at all…

So I drilled three holes the rear of the neck until I reached the thrussrod. After that I pumped some silicone bathroom sealant in the holes hoping this would reach the thrussrod slot. Well, it seemed to  work as the rattle has gone now!

Endpin… again

Being fed up with the rattling and moving endpin on my honey Stagg I decided to fix it once and for all. The movement is due to three things: the long extending length of the pin, the cheap plastic the endpin plug is made of and the fit of the plug in the bass body. After some thinking on it I decided I had two options:

  1. change the whole assembly for a normal DB endpin en plug
  2. make a new, good fitting plug from a better material

As I had already put some effort in making a new rubber tip for the stock pin and did not want to spend a lot more money on the bass at this moment (the money paid for the new amp was still fresh in my memory…) I decided to have a go at option 2. I knew I had a piece of 35 mm diameter aluminum rod in the workshop somewhere and that would make a good starting point for a new plug.

The pictures below describe the process of making a new plug step by step. The new plug has been chemically blackened afterwards using Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black and the fixing screw has been threaded directly into the aluminum.

The plug has a tight fit in the bass body and is fixed by two countersunk screws that screw into the aluminium of the plug. I made the part of the plug that goes onside the bass body about 20 mm longer to give more support. The pin itself did not fit in the 10 mm hole I drilled… The “10 mm” pin actually turned out to be somewhat larger in diameter… So I had to ream this out a bit. But now it is a nice and tight sliding fit.

Below you find the pictures from raw material to the mounted plug. So far I can feel no play anymore and the rattle is gone too. Time will tell if this will stay that way.


The Stagg comes with an active pre-amp powered by a 9V battery. So far these seem to have eternal life, even when it is of some obscure brand. But I have also read reports online that claim very short battery life. So just to be sure I have put a spare in the gigbag

Electronics-2On both my Staggs the electronics work pretty well. The headphone out is really handy when practicing late at night and the MP3 in is nice for playing along your favourite tracks. The Stagg has two piezos (one under each bridge foot) that have an adjustable potmeter. A small adjustment can have a great effect on the sound so be careful!

The very first thing I did on my black Stagg was shielding the electronics. The Stagg company did not bother with this and it is easily done by yourself. You just need some aluminium or copper tape, a sharp pen knife and some time. I did not think of this myself but found a complete tutorial online: see it for yourself on Flickr. Thanks for sharing your pictures mateybass!

I followed the tutorial picture by picture. I did try the foam under the piezos on the black Stagg but did not hear any difference in sound whatsoever. The endpin rattle I have solved another way. You can read about that here and here.

Below a few pictures of the shielded endpin cavity. The pre-amp cavity looks the same.